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The Vivienne Westwood collection hasn’t been on the runway since 2019. For its return to the catwalk, the London-based team took off to China to officially close the Shanghai Fashion Week schedule last night (officially being used loosely, there’s still lots to come from Shanghai).
The show got underway with a men’s look, a pinstripe suit worn with a pair of silver leather peep toe heels. Two other masc-looking models followed in black frocks, one of them carrying a basketball to match their dress. “Black, the best color for summer,” read the collection press release. These looks and their gender-bending styling—a house signature but less of a familiar sight in Shanghai—were a reminder of the kind of titillating play that made Dame Westwood a countercultural icon.
What ensued was an amalgamation of some commercial ready-to-wear (tees, denim mini skirts and jackets, knit separates); a range of athleisure in the form of biker shorts, tights, a funky singlet, and some wide-legged sweats; and swimwear. It was at times a confusing melange of product, particularly the inclusion of a singular Mao suit jacket. Not every visiting label at Shanghai Fashion Week needs to take on the challenge of reappraising Chinese garb. At the very least, the goal should be to do so with more commitment—considering particularly that the week has an array of talented local designers doing this sort of thing already. One can’t help but wonder what a combination of the unique Westwood tailoring vernacular might look like when combined with something as sharp as a Mao suit or a cheongsam.
The real hits here were the fan-favorite Westwood-isms. From tailored jackets and a deliciously signature Dame Vivienne skirt suit to a run of corsets and the designer’s signature plaid, it was these crowd pleasers the label should’ve focused on. On the menswear side, a black blouse with a ruched collar and a cropped denim jacket worn under a tiny black harness were highlights
A couple of tiny sparkly dresses and draped frocks are sure to charm the celebrity corps stateside. With Americans including Taylor Swift and Malia Obama wearing the label, New York should be the next destination in the Westwood travel itinerary.
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