Philipp Plein showcased his spring 2025 collection within his new Plein Hotel, placed right in front of the Indro Montanelli Gardens in the center of Milan. This glamorous location will be open to the public in November, with its four restaurants and 13 rooms. Plein’s passion and dedication for this new project were palpable when, just before the show, he gave a brief welcome to the crowded spaces. Then, with club music perfectly matching the atmosphere, the first look came out to confirm what the German designer defined as an “evolution of style, always faithful to the maximalism of the brand and truthful to its aesthetic, yet being able to change to stay relevant for 25 years.”
Tailoring was a main theme, with many Prince of Wales proposals such as suits and separates often bedazzled with Swarovski crystals creating flame motifs. But double-breasted suits were also presented in a monochromatic version and sleek silhouettes, a contemporary option of daily looks. Within this category there were many denim pieces, made of ripped jeans paired with metallic blazers or chic tweed jackets, including outerwear such as distressed trench coats.
Ski-inspired sunglasses created a contrast with evening proposals like elongated sequined gowns and floating pleated dresses, together with the ones with a touch of pop represented by a Lurex cherry print. That print in a minidress was upgraded to a full-paillettes version. Crystals are never enough at a Plein show, even for a more demure one such as this season’s. In fact, a shiny monogram recurred on blousons, while streetwear ensembles in full denim were encrusted with shiny beads, and wide pants were decorated to create a sparkling argyle motif.