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The Charm of Irregularity could serve as an apt title for N.21’s pre-fall collection, as Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s repertoire consistently leans on the ambiguity of contrasts, juxtaposing bourgeois with louche, insouciance with propriety, and grunge with decorum. Yet the designer avoids veering into unsettling or controversial extremes, keeping his rebellious spirit in check. He’s a gentle subversive.
“I’ve curated a collection of irregular ensembles,” he remarked during a showroom appointment; the irregular (yet rather pretty) wardrobe combined hints of vintage with “wrong touches of couture” and a nonchalant vibe, “as if a young girl had rummaged through her mother’s closet, piecing together outfits haphazardly.” It didn’t appear so haphazard though, Dell’Acqua is a skilled stylist.
The “so-wrong-it’s-right” playlist of improbable pairings comprised a classic masculine striped poplin shirt tucked with a fabulous sequined pencil midi skirt, or a chunky reversible black jumper layered over a romantic flimsy nude chiffon frock. A cropped ’60s gold brocatelle jacket à la Chanel with rhinestone buttons looked cool styled with a beige pleated cotton canvas skirt, while a slender ’30s-inspired black velvet evening gown was offset by a trailing faux-fur stole for an extra touch of glamour.
By his own admission, Dell’Acqua is allergic to trends; he designs clothes that are wearable while feeling au courant. His pieces are also fairly priced—in a luxury market where exorbitant pricing has made high fashion unaffordable for most mortals, his approach is not only refreshing, but truly commendable.
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