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There was an orange semicircle at the end of Kris Goyri’s runway. The first look came out: a blue bandeau-like top attached by a metallic circle to a deconstructed skirt assembled in two layers, with the top made out of a heavier orange fabric, and the bottom a purple gauzy pleated skirt. “I’ve been thinking about staring at the sun and seeing how the colors around it transform, how the birds that pass by become mystical beings against the light. And it’s a very unique moment,” the designer said backstage. Goyri has been chasing and contemplating sunsets in the coasts of Oaxaca for a few months now. Spring included all of his signature elements; pleated silks in bohemian-like dresses, and rows of fabric-covered buttons used on the side of the waistbands or at the back to complete flowing dresses, while also exploring tailoring with an abstract and fun angle.
The designer’s version of an ideal panoramic view is interpreted in a classic way; birds flying across the sky appeared as embellishments on mini tube dresses and corset tops, the sun reflecting on a deeply orange sea interpreted quite literally on a matching set; or the phases of the moon which made an appearance on a series of jumpsuits. Elsewhere, solid pieces grounded the designer’s idyllic view; like a brown sheer dress with flowy sleeves, and a very ’60s A-line mini dress.
But Goyri didn’t lose sight of the more day-to-day wearable pieces, like an asymmetric top paired with a skirt with two slits, or a skirt suit in a geometric pattern. “In the end I want the collection to become this celebration of life, of longing for those happy moments in the ’90s.” He certainly brought his joie de vivre.
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